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   3.1: Up North I
   3.2: Up North II
   3.3: Phuket
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India
   2.1: Darjeeling
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   2.3: Varanasi
   2.4: Khajuraho
   2.5: Kanha
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BP3.2: Thailand -- The North II

Bridge over the River Pai
A fun trip down a more rarely rafted part of the Pai River.

Pai was a little Disney-like and I wasn't dying to spend another day here so I walked down the road to the next rafting company and asked if they had a trip leaving tomorrow that would get me to Mae Hong Son. Typical trips were 2 days and the company would run your luggage down to meet you. I just wanted to get to Mae Hong Son and a wild river seemed like a good way to do it.

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River Trip

So the company who organized the "trek" dropped us off back in town. Everyone was tired and cold and hungry. Especially me. We ended up getting rooms at the place that organized the trek as they were the closest. Simple, cheap.

Very Special Trip!!! American river guides coming! You very lucky! I was so used to stuff like this from people selling tours, etc., that I didn't really pay any attention. But the guy was right.

It turns out that a bunch of river guides who work for [ ??? Damn, forgot the name of the company -- Whitewater Adventures or something like that] come over here for "vacation." They bring used equipment such as paddles, life vests and helmets over here and donate it to a local company that they've befriended. Also, they've shipped used boats over here. Ok, boats that wouldn't pass inspection in the states, but boats none the less.

The leader, Ian, was the first person ever to raft the Upper Pai River about 5 years ago. Once again on this trip I was blessed to be able to spend a couple of days with a really great group of people. There were also a few other regular "lucky" tourists like me. Some of these folks were guides in their spare time. They had regular jobs but would go lead raft trips on the weekends in California. Or were self employed and could take days off for multi-day trips when needed. The idea of doing this never occurred to me. Hmmmmm... Extremely inspiring....

      
For the first day I got to be in a boat with just two other people [damn, I've waited too long and names have slipped my mind again]. A father and son and a bunch of stuff -- it was an over night trip. I got to do some steering through small, simple rapids. I think that now I am entirely addicted. It's a lot more mental rather than physical. I was really surprised. Now I know how these tiny women can guide boats through rapids (and sometimes do better than men as they are relying on brains over strength). Definitely a problem solving activity over a very nebulous and indefinite domain.

Unlike the river trip in India, I couldn't take as many photos through the rapids as these were a bit more intense and tricky and I actually had to paddle. Until it joined up with another river on the second day, the river wasn't as high as it could be. But this made for some really tricky runs (check out the video!). This raft (on the right -- no names) went for broke over the waterfall and got stuck on the top. For a long time.

      

This was just one of those moments. The all-gal's boat was stuck on top of the water fall (hey, still no names). Our raft was hemorrhaging air (left) and we keep hearing this noise. Like a frog, but definitely not. There was something alive in the raft with us. I picked up the cardboard box in the front of the boat to look underneath and a chicken stuck it's head out of the bottom. Needless to say we didn't pack our own boat. At that point we had a pretty darned good idea what was for dinner and that it would be fresh...

They brought a kayak along. Not exactly a river kayak, but what ever it was, it was really addicting, even more so than boat guiding. Someone else using it earlier lost the paddle in a rapid, so all that was available was a regular boat paddle, which made things really interesting. For this photo, it was suggested that it would make a better picture if I tried running this small rapid backwards.
For the most part, the kayaking went ok. I only got hung up on a log once, at the top of a long rapid and had to do rest of it on my back, while trying to keep my sandals on. Those tevas are a great idea. Mine are in the storage locker...

Don't try this at home. -or- Now, that's entertainment. At a rest stop we stumbled upon a wrecked bamboo raft, the kind used on the mellow river (no rapids) on that hike. Just a bunch of bamboo poles, tied together. The guides rebuilt it (with one of the locals using a knife to make bamboo straps on the spot) and down the river they went. They did well for a few rapids before the thing disintegrated beneath them.

             

At camp. There was a birthday and a very creative cake done w/ candles and Oreo cookies. Ian (the guide) was a great guy but attempted to poison me with whiskey. After I'd already made the same attempt. Went to sleep at 4:30 and was up at 6:30am. After my experience w/ the "trek" I made 3 different people promise that there would be something approaching real sleeping bags, and still I ended up with one of those damn thin blankets again. Good thing for the whiskey I guess. And the fires.


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Mae Hong Son

I really try -- and have gotten amazingly good at -- not having expectations regarding where I end up. But I was really ready for a place that was nice and not completely touristy. Mae Hong Son was it. Yes, there were travelers/tourists there, but the town didn't seem bent over backwards accommodating them. It seemed like ... a town in Thailand. I crashed w/ the river people at this strange hotel that we ended up at and then for the next couple of nights stayed at a real gem. Got warm. Relaxed and got some work done. Oh, and played a ton of music which was nice. It's good to stay in one place for a while, and it's amazing how full a day can get when you are in a nice, comfortable, warm place w/ your fiddle & laptop. I actually wanted to stay a couple more days, but I'd decided that enough was enough with the cold and it was time for warm weather and beaches in the south and the way the flights worked out I had to leave one day earlier than I wanted.

my hotel
the lake in the center of town

finally made it to a temple
bottom right -- it's actually covered in gold leaf
more shots around town
this place just looks way too much like SLO, including a nearby hill to hike up.
No wonder it felt like home....
But you can't see Burma from Madonna Mountain


next: BP3.3 Thailand - Phuket